Sunday, March 22, 2015

Iceland- the final days

On our last few days, we had many things planned yet to see and do.  Our first goal was to see the solar eclipse, which was to be at 99.6% occluded at our location in Iceland.  Our Airbnb host had the wonderful foresight to leave us solar viewing glasses, which look like they came straight out of a Devo music video or a scene from the 1950's atom bomb propaganda:


  Sadly, it had been cloudy for days and although we did experience the momentary darkness we could not see the eclipse itself.  

Bettie is not looking at the eclipse, but squinting at some clouds.

Although we were disappointed, in some sort of cosmic act of solidarity on our flight home we met a gentleman from Newburyport who is retired and plans his vacations around solar eclipses up to years in advance- he and his wife were flying home from the Faroe Islands where they saw the eclipse in totality.  He said it took him years and at least 2-3 trips to get everything right.  So, we've got time.  And even the pros screw up.


Moving on!  We did see some reindeer up in the wee hours of the morning!


 We then continued our trip along the southeastern coast on route 1.  We came along black beaches with gorgeous white waves and giant monolithic stones just hanging out.  A rainbow poked out, and our day was absolutely looking up.


if you look carefully, there was a rainbow in this pic to the left of Trevor and giant monolith stone.

inverted beach- black sand, white waves

just one example of the many amazingly placed farm houses a the base of incredible mountains
 Our next stop was Jökulsárlón, a lake that siphons iceberg babies out to sea.  This lake has only been around since 1980's, and is the product of the glacier receding back from the ocean. This may be the most peaceful place on earth- quiet, unassuming, with occasional splashes and groans from the slowly moving icebergs.
Bettie had no effect on this iceberg whatsoever.



hard to convey the ghostly, unearthly blue that radiated off these things.




 We then headed on to Skaftafell national park, a favorite of Icelanders and tourists alike.  Unfortunately we were low on energy and time, and took a quick walk out to meet Jokuls the ridiculously huge iceberg.
just some dude in the foreground for scale- couldn't get the whole thing in anyways.

strangely reminiscent of ice-cream or pure white marshmallows drizzled with chocolate sauce.
 We spent our last evening in Iceland at Icelandair Klaustur, which I would highly recommend.  It was cheap, easy to find, comfy, and has a wonderful restaurant with Icelandic favorites like lamb and arctic char, as well as this awesome Icelandic beer made by Borg in Reykjavik.  Good stuff.

Our final day was spent hurrying to the airport, with a few quick stops on the way.  Early in the morning we were driving through some intense fog, but could make out a green mossy wonderland on the side of the road.
We stopped at Skógafoss another beautiful waterfall, complete with a rainbow when the sun came out.
we are getting soaked by the falls even this far away



to get the "I'm flying!" effect, climb this weird rock and then have the guts to look out at the waterfall and let go- its terrifying and awesome.

rainbow sorta!!

seagulls loved this locale, didn't mind the spritz.
 Per our dear friends Anna and Martin's excellent advice, we made time for a detour to Stokkseyri to eat at Fjorubordid, an excellent seafood restaurant right on the coast.  The back of the menu had a cute story about how sailors and seamen would come despite treacherous weather and many miles to have the lobster (langoustine) soup, so that's what we ate.  They were not kidding on how delicious this soup was.
we would seriously eat here daily if we could.
The end of our journey was as you might expect- annoying lines at the airport, classic Worcester-ite driving us to our house, and holing up to recover from our vacation.  We are already dreaming about when we might be able to return to the land of ice and snow.

Thursday, March 19, 2015

Iceland, Days 3, 4, and 5!

On day 3 we began our easterly trip from Hvammstangi. Hvammstangi is in a region known for its seal harems (that's what they're called, look it up).
Some jerk painted this horse
Skirting the edge of the fjords, there were always mountains in the distance.
Can't believe this guy married Heidi Klum. He's way out of her league.

Dat sassy face. Zoom in for sassy face.
Could be a postcard
We decided to take a scenic route through Fjallabyggð, a peninsula on the northern end of the island. The GPS decided to send us on a route that became impassable after 20km, so we had to double back and go along the coast. We snagged this picture to commemorate our near Donner Party experience.





We finally arrive in Akureyri, find our lovely accommodations and enjoy a sunset and nice evening out.
 



We ate whale! Soft like fish, meaty like steak. Yummy?
 Next day we head out for Egilsstaðir by way of Mývatn. On our way we climbed Hverfjall, an enormous volcanic crater.



Climbing volcanoes is hard work. But someone's got to do it.

"Holy shit, a crater!"

 We knew that Jesse Goldman was going to be in Iceland, but he was going a day earlier and leaving a day earlier. He was going counterclockwise and we were going clockwise. Somehow we still managed to cross paths at the base of this volcano.

After Hverfjall, we went to Dimmuborgir (A.K.A The Catacombs of Hell), a field of cone-shaped volcanic rocks

These santa guys are the mascot of Dimmuborgir and their pictures are everywhere. These guys are known to be tricksters, and we blame them for our getting a bit lost
We arrived in Egilsstaðir and cooked a traditional Icelandic meal of hot dogs

Day 5 we climbed Litlanesfoss and Hengifoss

Litlanesfoss

We didn't take this picture, but that's how it looks in the summer.

As the lava cools it forms hexagonal basalt, perfect for Ore in Settlers of Catan




Hengifoss was frozen!




After Litlanesfoss we drove to Djúpivogur, on the southeastern side of the island. In Djúpivogur we stopped at an artist's house called 'Sticks, Stones, and Bones. The artist was nowhere to be found, but his dog greeted us by rolling a ball down a hill in an invitation to play.

Tomorrow, the eclipse! (weather permitting...)